Cider Making Revisited 10.22.06

A Note On This Article

As this being my third season making ciders, and my
first pressing pears for Perry, I will here note the
few things I’ve learned since my first attempts in the
fall of 2004.

Sources for Fresh Cider  

Robinettes presses exceptional cider, however, there
are many places to acquire raw “sweet” cider that are
far less pricey. As I like to say to new wine and
cider makers, “we’re in the middle of cider country!”
As you travel, pick up some of the local cider and
compare. If available, ask the grower or seller the
apple varieties used.      

Seek out Michigan apple growers and farmers who press
and sell their own unpasteurized cider or send their
apples to a local mill for pressing, such as Engelsma.
Make their acquaintance and tell them your intent. As
a cider or wine maker, you are not their target
market. You need cider in bulk. At least half the
price of a gallon of cider is derived from the
packaging; skip the packaging and the price goes down.
Offer to bring in your plastic fermenter and see if
they will fill it on their press and package day. Both
Tanis farms (616) 453-9566, who sell at the farmer’s
market on Fulton and Fuller NE Grand Rapids (T,W,F,S,
8am until around 2pm) and Hills Brother’s Orchards
(616)784-2767 on Peachridge Ave. north of town will
fill your fermenter if dropped off with your name and
phone number attached. Call ahead and ask when a good
time to stop by would be and about prices, expect
between $2 - $3 dollars a gallon, but make sure you
ask prices first! Also, last year’s frozen cider also
works great. Many farmers sell cider year-round in
this fashion as frozen cider keeps well.   

Press your own cider! A lot of crushing and pressing
took place this year at Siciliano’s, most of it
concerning pears. Remember: we’re your home for
unwanted fruit and are notorious for fermenting just
about any unwanted fruit, short of windfalls.

In the back “warehouse” behind the store we rent, on
premise, an apple and pear crusher. It’s completely
manual, maximizing your participation (just like our
famed house Corona grain mills). It takes a little
effort but ultimately works out great. Scoop your
crushed pomace into one of 4 various sized presses and
crank out your juice. A very rewarding time! Call
ahead for availability.

Rather or not you crushed your own apples or pears or
purchased bulk sweet raw cider, the next steps are the
same.

Putting Together Your Batch

Start by taking a gravity reading. Some sugar is
usually added to bump up the fermentables in the wort.
A good stable cider should start out at 1.045 - 1.065
S.G. and it may take the addition of sugars to reach
this depending on the blend, variety, region and
season. As I talked about in the 2004 article, you can
add cane sugar, brown sugar, maple syrup, molasses,
honey, treacle and/or raisons to reach a higher than
naturally occurring O.G.. Check out the cider style
guidelines at BJCP.org for more details on this,
however, the main impression I’d like to make is do
not simply rely on a stagnant recipe calling for
specific volumes of various sugars, instead, begin by
taking a specific gravity reading and determine the
S.G. of the sweet cider, then, by adding sugar(s) to a
warmed up portion, raise the gravity to the desired
level. This wine makers chapitilization (the practice
of adding sugar to raise the specific gravity) chart
may come in handy:

http://www.grapestompers.com/chaptalize_wine.asp

Using sulfites or pasteurization to sanitize the must
of wild bacteria is an option, however, I rely solely
on the yeast I pitch to overpower any possible
contamination, i.e., I don’t use them. Cider is
usually purchased or even pressed at a cool
temperature, discouraging early fermentation. When
deciding rather or not to stove-top pasteurize or
sulfite your cider or perry, consider the freshness of
the cider and for how long you will store it, and at
what temperature, before you get the must started.
Remember, cider is full of natural yeast; if you don’t
get yours in, they will start without you!     

Next, determine the flavor profile you’d like to
obtain from your cider or perry. Do you want a dry
beverage? A sweet drink to heat up during the storm? A
tart sipper? A smooth, crisp summer quencher? The
profile of your cider beverage is the derivative of
three correlating characteristics: (1) alcohol, (2)
acidity and, (3) fruit flavor. Each of these
components act upon each other. For instance, a lower
alcohol beverage will better showcase the fruit
profile just as a higher alcohol volume will subdue
the delicate play of acidity. Lesson here: keep your
gravity under control for early attempts in order to
ensure a more drinkable beverage. Once you’ve mastered
these lower gravity ciders (1.040 - 1.050), the
experience you’ve mustered will help you obtain future
successful batches. Remember: unlike beer, the sugars
in cider and perry are completely fermentable. Your
final gravity will fall below 1.000 F.G. leaving you
with a naturally completely dry beverage.

However, you can sweeten your finished cider and this
is a common practice to be explained in a moment.

Also, consider rather your intent is to make apple
wine or apple cider. The main difference being the
starting gravity as apple wine’s (S.G. of 1.070 -
1.100) gravity is boosted significantly with cane
sugar (chapitilization). This higher gravity and
resulting higher alcohol percent lends to a vinous
quality and lighter body in the resulting beverage.   


Choose Your Yeast

All yeast is ‘cider yeast’ because any strain can be
used. Always use fresh yeast, but beyond that,
experiment!

The naturally occurring yeast in your sweet cider (the
light colored sediment on the bottom of the jug) will
ferment your cider, however, you will have no control
over these wild yeast’s flavor profile. We recommend
pitching a yeast strain isolated specifically for wine
or beer making.

Here are a few popular choices for apple cider among
us at Siciliano’s: the wine yeasts Lalvin K1-V1116,
EC-1118, Red Star Champagne, Cote De Blances,
Whitelabs Champagne and Sweet Mead Yeast and dry Ale
yeasts Safale S-56, S-04. I’d recommend S-56 or
K1-V1116 for a first batch.          

Mix Together Your Ingredients

See 2004 article for directions on mixing together
your ingredients and a standard process for fermenting
your batch. Once you’ve got this under your belt try
experimenting with varying fermentation temperatures.
Research the yeast strain you choose to discover its
optimal fermentation temperature. After initial
fermentation try reducing the temp for a ‘cold
conditioning’ stage. This will help the yeast
completely flocculate and mellow the profile of your
cider or perry.   

Clarifying

Even though BJCP guidelines do not necessitate your
apple or pear beverage’s clarity, a translucent cider
has nice appeal. Here’s a few ways to clear up a
cloudy cider.

1) Do nothing; accept your cider’s natural appearance
and let it be.

2) Be patient. Have you racked the cider from the
lees? In my experience, most all of my ciders have
cleared on their own. This may take from as little as
a few weeks up to months. Be patient!

3) Try reducing the temperature of your cider after
fermentation in order to assist the yeasts in
flocculating out of suspension. Many things will fall
out at a cooler temperature, give it a try on a
persistently cloudy cider.

4) Add a fining agent to clear it up. My favorite is
LQ K.C. super finings, a double punch of both chitosan
and kieselsol which has worked ever time I’ve applied
it. Also try polyclar, gelatin, or isinglass. Adding
pectic enzyme and/or wine tannin to the initial recipe
formulation will also assist in achieving clarity.    


Perfect Your Product

Once the main fermentation of your pear or apple cider
completes, it is common practice to sweeten, increase
the body or acidity of, or blend your ciders.

Remember: cider sugars are completely fermentable and
will finish completely dry. You cannot “stop
fermentation” at a certain point along the way with
any practical additive.

In order to sweeten your finished cider, try a product
called ‘wine conditioner’, a mixture of liquid invert
sugar and Potassium Sorbate. Sorbate inhibits renewed
fermentation so be careful if you plan to bottle
condition your product for carbonation: it will not
work. Add the wine conditioner to a small sample of
your cider to see how you like it, then continue to
add to taste until a proper sweetness is achieved.

If a both carbonated and sweetened beverage is
desired, force carbonation may be the tool you are
looking for. See the accompanying article on this
website for kegging details and instructions.

Glycerin is another additive which can be used to
increase the perception of body or mouth feel. Again,
add to taste and experiment.

If your finished cider tastes mild or bland, try
adding some acid blend or malic acid (the acid
naturally occurring in apples). As talked about
earlier, the profile of your cider is a balance of
acidity, alcohol and fruit. Altering one of these can
accentuate or mellow the other variables. Experiment
and keep clear and concise notes.

Oak Aging

Fermenting or storing you cider in contact with oak
can add complexity to its body and mouth feel, a
vanilla flavor and aroma, and a deeper amber hue.
While aging in a true oak barrel is an art, one I have
not yet even attempted by the way, which requires
skill, knowledge, and practice, adding oak chips or
cubes is simple. Experiment with toast levels, amount,
and contact time. I recently added 4oz medium toast
oak chips to my carboy for a week and was rewarded
with an increased tannic mouth feel.

Cider makers will also blend various batches of oaked
or unoaked ciders to achieve a desired flavor profile.
This is another part of the art of cider making.
Experiment. Try blending cider into your beers or
vice-versa. I think I may try a little amber DME in my
next batch or even cut in a few ounces of Apple Jack
before bottling…

Spicing

Spices can also be employed in cider making. Try a
blend of old world mulling spices, cinnamon, vanilla,
nutmeg, cloves or anything else that sounds good to
you. Create a tincture by soaking the spices is
spirits like grain alcohol, brandy, rum, apple jack or
apple brandy. After a few weeks of soaking, strain out
the spices and blend into your fermented cider. Spices
can also be added into the fermenter itself or
simmered in a mixture before the initial fermentation
starts. Another way to use seasonal spices is to heat
up your fermented beverage and add the spices directly
to the mug you’re sipping from.       
        
Concentrating

Cider naturally has a relatively low alcohol percent
by volume. Freezing the fermented or unfermented cider
to scoop out the ice crystals or to concentrate the
unfermented sugars are common historical practices.
See the reference list in 2004’s article for more on
this. Sounds genius to me.   

Sparkling or Still…

The BJCP Style Guidelines (favored bathroom reading
here at Siciliano’s)  lists three levels of
carbonation for bottled ciders: still, petillant
(lightly carbonated) and sparkling. All are enjoyable
and distinct ways in which to enjoy cider.

A still cider has relatively zero Co2 dissolved into
solution and therefore can be bottled in cork-able
wine style bottles.

Petillant and sparkling ciders must me capped in
appropriate bottles or corked with a champagne corker
and appropriate equipment and are primed with varying
amounts of sugar. Try 2-3 oz corn sugar for petillant
or 5 oz per 5 gallon batch for sparkling. Consider
adding fresh yeast along with the priming agent if the
cider has bulk aged longer than a couple months. This
is not completely necessary as yeast still remains in
solution even after months of bulk aging; however,
adding fresh yeast will greatly speed up the
carbonation process.        

Storing and Aging

Fermented cider is alive with yeast; therefore, like
wine, its profile will continue to develop over years.
As a rule, ciders with a lower starting gravity and
tannin presence will peak in character sooner than
bigger batches. Keep a journal and samples of your
batches over the years and take careful note of subtle
changes. You may find certain recipe formulations tend
to taste best fresh and others after months of bulk
aging.  

Go to BJCP.org

Read the style guidelines and learn about the history
of apple cider! Visit Beertown.org and read about
apple events. Attend the Great Lakes Old World Syder
Competition held annually in Grand Rapids, MI. For
more information about this excellent local apple
cider event contact Rex Halfpenny mibeerguyd@aol.com.
Entries are accepted this year 11/20 - 11/30. Get
involved!   
Its Cold Out… Make Cider!

This fall I fermented my first batch of hard cider.  The product is one of the most enjoyable beverages I have ever brewed.  Tart and crisp, yet mellow and light, my first batch of cider keeps me looking forward to going home!  Here’s how me and my partner the Perch made it happen.
First you need to find a good source of cider.  Pressing your own could be a very rewarding experience.  For me, however, a trip to Robinettes was the thing to do.  The cider I most recently purchased was pressed just that morning and they still have plenty left.  
Secondly you need to decide what kind of hard cider you wish you were drinking on.  You can make a sweet cider, dry cider, spiced cider. You can blend cider with mead, or with beer.  Get creative.  I swished my finished cider around the glass with some sparkling fruit juice and it was wonderful!  Ask yourself what you wish you were drinking.  Now do a little reading.  Check out some books in the store and ask some questions.  
The last things you’ll need to determine are batch size and gravity (alcohol content). Purchased cider, on its own, has an approximate Original Gravity of between 1.035 and 1.060; that will give a dry (fully fermented) cider an alcohol volume of between 4.5 to 8%. (Crushing your own apples seems to give much higher O.G.’s.) Pretty decent, but a little honey and brown sugar can get it up higher and add some great character.  When thinking about how much to make, just remember that it’s just as easy to make 1 gallon as it is to make 6.   

Below is a recipe I am currently fermenting, titled:  “First of the Year Cider”

Equipment:

Primary Fermenter (glass is nice, the brew changes colors like fall leaves)
Secondary appropriate for batch size       
Sanitizing/racking/bottling equipment
Bottles/capper/caps (any size, champagne are especially nice)
Hydrometer/Thermometer
Brew Spoon
Colander/funnel with strainer

Ingredients:

Yeast energizer
Yeast nutrient
Pectic Enzyme
Whitelabs Champagne Yeast  
Five gallons Robinettes Cider
Two pounds Domino Brand Brown Sugar
Two and one-half pounds Bulk honey from the store


Process:

Just as simple as it can get!

1) Start by sanitizing the fermenter.  Pick a size that leaves about a gallon of head space at most.  

2) As you’re doing this, start to warm up your cider jugs in the sink; bringing them up to about 70F by surrounding them with warm water.  

3) On the store top, warm up about a half gallon of cider in which to dissolve the honey and brown sugar.  Stir them in being careful not to heat the mixture above 100F - no need to get that hot.     

4) With this being done, begin to pour the cider through a mesh colander or funnel w/ strainer into the fermenter.  This adds air which aides in the initial fermentation.  

5) Before all of the cider is added, add the pectic enzyme, nutrient and energizer.  Follow the directions on the packaging for quantities.  

6) Finish adding all of the cider and take an Original Gravity reading (mine was 1.082). Finally, pitch the Champagne yeast.  Keep it between 68-70F for a good initial fermentation.  

Fermentation:

Duration of fermentation depends on how well you aerated your wort, the temperature at which you ferment, and the Original Gravity.  Keep the cider in primary (admiring the colors) until the active fermentation shows signs of slowing.  This could be between 2-3 weeks at least.  
When the fermentation has slowed significantly, transfer it to a secondary vessel the same volume as the total amount of cider, i.e., no head space. If there is any head space after racking over, top it up with cooled boiled water.
The cider can finish in the secondary, however, a tertiary fermenter may be desirable if much lees settle have settled out.  Bottle when fermentation completes (two days of consecutive Final Gravity readings) and the cider has naturally cleared out.  You can prime or leave it flat. 1 oz of priming sugar per gallon gives some really nice Champagne bubbles after a month or so in the bottle.  An extraordinary treat.  Put a few bottles away ‘till next New Year’s.

Slightly Advanced Cider Making Techniques:  

Acid Testing:

I am a beer brewer, so I was very interested in tasting for the acidity in ciders.  In beer I taste for hops and malt and yeast along with mouthfeel.  In cider, one tastes for mouthfeel and acidity.  A very new taste characteristic for me!  An acid titration kit will give you an acidity level to go along with the taste samples from your work in progress. A excessively high-level reading and acid taste may be improved upon by the following process.   

Malo-lactic Fermentation:  

A Malo-Lactic fermentation occurs when the harsh Malic acid, commonly found in apples, is fermented by Lactic acid bacteria.  It is desirable if your cider tastes too “harsh”.   CO2 is the fermented result, along with more Lactic acid and a smoother tasting cider.  This spontaneous fermentation should occur during the secondary and can be encouraged by letting the cider stand on its lees for a month or so at room temperature.  My cider’s Malo-Lactic fermentation lasted for two weeks and resulted in a superior mellow taste.  It also left a haze that was easily cleared with some two-stage euro finings.  We stock Malolactic bacteria cultures to start a Malo-Lactic fermentation if yours won’t take, along with Lysozyme to inhibit spontaneous Malo-Lactic fermentation.      

Literature:

The book Cider is a helpful guide for those who wish to immerse themselves more fully into the art. It covers all the aspects and possibilities of fermenting apple juice, albeit a little out of date:  
Nichols, Lew & Proulx, Annie.  Cider:  Making, Using & Enjoying Sweet &Hard Cider.  Storey Publishing.  2003.

It is highly recommended to read and research as you experiment with fermentation,  however, never let your absence of full understanding inhibit experimentation.    
 
Food Accompaniments

Served along with the brown sugar and honey sparkling cider, I baked a brown sugar and honey drizzled whole pork loin.  The sweet and soft meat perfectly complimented the cold fizz of my tart cider.  Serve the drink ice cold in tall Champagne flutes and the meat on a board for an authentic old world evening.

Ingredients:

Whole (10lbs) or Half (5lbs) Pork Loin
2 lbs Brown Sugar
1 lb Honey
1-2 apples of choice
Cinnamon
6-pack Busch Light tall boys
Total cooking time 1.5 - 2hrs

Process:

1) Submerge and soak the pork in the beer for at least 24hrs.

2) Preheat oven to 325F

3) Fully sear the three sides that aren’t covered with fat.

4) Place in a shallow baking dish uncovered and smother with brown sugar.
     
5) Bake for 1 ¼ hours at 325F, spoon marinade on top, cover with peeled and sliced apples, pour on honey and sprinkle cinnamon to taste.  Return to oven and bake to internal temp. of approximately 160 - 165F, or 15 - 30 more min..  Take out of oven for 15min before serving.  Enjoy.